2x/day Finger Health Hangboard

This is the daily routine I've been doing for healthy and strong fingers! Follow along with me. // Emil Abrahamsson // 2:00 Half Crimp 5:00 3 Finger drag 8:00 Front 2-finger drag 9:00 Middle 2-finger drag 10:00 Front 2-finger crimp 11:00 Middle 2-finger crimp LOADING NOTE: I've seen some comments about how much 40% of max is, here's an example how I calculate mine: I weigh around 80kg, and could add around 80-100kg if I do a max hang (~5 second hang) on a 20mm edge. Total weight: ~160kg. From this value I want to load my fingers by 40% of that. 40% of 160kg is 64kg, and so I want to subtract 64kg from my 80kg on the scale. E.g, on the half crimp the scale says somewhere around 15-25kg for me when I'm loading my fingers correctly. With the two-finger half crimp I'm the weakest, and can just barely hang from the ground as a max hang, there I unload 40-45kg instead. Hope this clears it up a bit!

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Appears In

Rock Climbing

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